This is the other half of Patagonia, the narrow crust of Chile trapped by the Andes' rugged spine to the east, the crashing Pacific ocean to the west. It is punctuated everywhere by water - lakes, rivers, spring creeks, fjords - and rain. It is a place of trout, only made accessible to anglers through the dreams and efforts of intrepid outfitters who have built their amazing, often remote lodges throughout this watery realm.