Quite simply the best searun brown trout river, and one of the best-run lodges in the world. Fish from 10 to 30+ pounds using double-hand or 8-weight single-hand rods with floating and sink-tip lines. Beautiful, stark environment. Weather ranges from warm to requiring fleece and rain gear, and it is almost always very windy. Easy wade-fishing, vehicle supported, great guides, luxury accommodations, food and wine.
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Anglers fly internationally to Buenos Aires, Argentina then continue on a domestic flight to Tierra del Fuego, where they are met for transfer to the lodge. Most flights from the U.S. leave late in the evening arriving in "BA" early the next morning. Depending on your dates and U.S. departure city this international flight averages $900 to $1,200 in cost and takes 8 to 10 hours in flying time.
Once in BA anglers have two options for continuing on to Tierra del Fuego:
1) spend the day and a night in BA and fly to Rio Grande (RGA) early the next morning, where they will be picked up for a short, 45-minute transfer to the lodge, or 2) transfer immediately to the domestic airport and fly to Ushuaia (USH) where they will be picked up for a three-hour transfer to the lodge. The first option is the most popular since it's a more direct routing, but it requires spending a night in BA. The second routing is very convenient in that you can get to the lodge the same day you arrive in BA, but it requires a much longer (although quite scenic!) transfer. The flight to either Rio Grande or Ushuaia is about three-hours long and the cost is similar (approx. $350 round trip).
Anglers choosing to continue directly on to Ushuaia must transfer from Ezeiza International Airport (EZE) (which is about 20 miles outside of the city) to the Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP) domestic airport located near downtown. Transfer between the two airports is easy by taxi or car service (we recommend Manuel Tiende Leon - desk on left just as you leave the secure area of airport), costs approx. $40 and takes about 45-minutes driving time. But be sure your itinerary allows a minimum of 3 hours from landing in BA to take off to Ushuaia – for immigration, luggage handling, transfer, check-in, etc.
Most anglers choose the Rio Grande route, preferring to stay a day or two in BA to acclimate, see the sights (highly recommended) and avoid transfer timing issues. Call us for suggestions on hotels, tour guides, fabulous restaurants, tango performances, and other great things to see and do in the city. Transfer time from downtown BA hotels to the domestic airport is approx. 15-minutes and is easily and safely done by taxi (approx. $20)
Private pilots
click here for information on Hermes Quijada International Airport (RGA) in Rio Grande, and
here for information on Malvinas Argentinas Airport (USH) in Ushuaia.
At the end of the week a lodge representative will transfer you to either Rio Grande or Ushuaia for your mid-day flight back to the domestic airport (AEP) in Buenos Aires where you will transfer to the international airport (EZE) and easily connect with an evening flight back to the U.S. on the same day.
We suggest you purchase your tickets through a U.S. travel agent so they can assist in the event of a schedule change. We highly recommend Alicia at Holdy Tours (800-446-1111) in Walnut Creek, CA. She is a travel wholesaler and South American expert and will find you the absolute best and least-expensive flight options.
Entry: American citizens entering the country through Ezeiza (EZE) airport will be charged a $140 entrance fee. This is a one-time fee that is valid for 10 years. A current passport is required with or without visa depending on your nationality. For all U.S. citizens, passports must be valid for a minimum of three months beyond the visitor's proposed date of departure. U.S. citizens do not need a visa for visits of up to 90 days for tourism and business. All visitors must be in possession of a return passage to a country for which they have a right of entry.
Customs: Generally, foreign tourists (especially tourists carrying fly rods) are not bothered by customs officials upon entry. You are allowed to bring personal items such as clothing, footwear, toiletries, etc., as well as; any fishing equipment needed during your stay and personal medications. You are allowed to enter Argentina with 2 liters of alcohol, 400 cigarettes and 50 cigars. Expensive camera and video equipment should be declared and you will have to bring it out with you when you leave.
Inoculations and Health Concerns: There are no formal requirements, or recommendations for immunizations and very little risk of infectious disease in Argentina. You should check with your personal physician if you are concerned. We recommend that anglers be up-to-date on their Tetanus, Hepatitis-A and Hepatitis-B vaccinations.
Political Situation: Argentina is a safe, pro-American country. Argentineans are overall a very friendly people and welcome foreign tourists. The hospitality of the country people in rural Argentina (where all the fishing takes place) is genuine and warm. The current president of Argentina is a woman, Cristina Fernández de Kirchner.
The big searun brown trout start to return to the pools of the Rio Grande in significant numbers around Thanksgiving. Less than a month later the river is loaded with fish and it is estimated that by New Year's day, nearly 80% of the annual fish have returned. That translates into more than a thousand monster trout per river mile. The fish initially herd up in the best lower river pools, though hundreds more of the silver sea trout continue to pour into the Rio Grande on every high tide, twice a day until sometime in May.
Early season fish are very aggressive, full of fight, and acrobatic. They move readily to dries, and three of the largest sea trout ever recorded were caught and released in January. The most productive weeks of the season shifts each year and can’t be consistently targeted on the calendar. The best week to be on the Rio Grande is whichever best suits your schedule. In fact, when the weather cooperates, nearly every day of the season is good!
The Estancia Maria Behety Lodge, built in 1999, sits on a promontory overlooking the Rio Grande with panoramic views of vast pampas and the remnants of the Andean cordillera framing the background. There are eight double occupancy rooms in the lodge that can accommodate a maximum of 16 guests, though they limit it to 12 anglers total. The extra rooms allow a handful of anglers to secure a private room for a nominal, additional cost. Each large guest room is attractively decorated and features two double beds with a shared nightstand, a full dresser, and ample closet space. A full bath with two vanity/sink areas and a walk-in glass shower complete each guest rooms. Each two guest rooms also share a sizable common room which is a terrific space to store extra gear, get organized, tie some flies or just sit and relax with a good book.
The timber-framed great room features 20-foot plus high ceilings with banks of elevated windows allowing streaming sunlight to naturally illuminate the space and add warmth. A roaring fireplace anchors the main room and several sitting areas are the gathering spot to relive the fishing of the day and relax with wonderful appetizers and a cocktail. A full bar is well stocked with all the right libations including the finest Argentine wines and plenty of ice cold beer, all complimentary. Dinners are served in the main dinning room just off the great room. Additionally, there is a computer with internet service to check emails as well as a complete gift/tackle shop.
Meals at Estancia Maria Behety revolve around the fishing schedule. Usually anglers are up at 7:00 a.m. and fresh coffee and hot tea is available to shake the cobwebs out. In the dinning room a sideboard is topped with fresh fruit, hand-squeezed juices, yogurt, cereals, toast and pastries. For those that prefer a more traditional American breakfast, cook-to-order eggs, omelets, potatoes, bacon and ham are available from the kitchen. As is typical in South America the midday meal is grand, a full sit-down affair with great wines, delicious desserts and good strong coffee. A welcome siesta follows lunch, before anglers gear up again. Dinners are served later than what most are accustomed to in order to accommodate the evening fishing session. and they are much lighter than the midday meal.
Hooking up with a big sea run brown is an emotional fishing experience that defies accurate description. Most fish grab a streamer or nymph on the swing and your first notion is you’ve hooked a snag. But there are damn few snags in the Rio Grande. It’s about this time when the three-foot long “snag” starts violently shaking its head, and its time to plant your feet and get ready for a fight.
After weighing and measuring the length and girth of nearly 6,000 sea trout for three years in a row, University of Montana biologists studying the Rio Grande have developed a very accurate formula for estimating weight. The average fish on Estancia Maria Behety is in the low-teens, but using this proven UM formula, it’s safe to say that around a dozen browns are caught by anglers each season eclipsing 30 pounds! Each and every season!
These big brown trout are much like Pacific salmon and steelhead, in that they’re most active in low light conditions. The scientists call them nega-phototropic, and as the sun gets higher, fish retreat to the deepest parts of the pools. Perhaps it’s because they’re used to the deeper sea, or they feel exposed to predators in bright sunlight, but it’s a fact they’re more aggressive and much more likely to strike a fly in the early morning, late evening, or when it’s overcast.
Much has been written about the strong winds of Tierra del Fuego and unfortunately most of it is true. However, the Rio Grande isn’t super wide, casts are seldom more than 60-feet, and almost never directly into the wind. Competent casters have little difficulty adjusting to the almost constant gusts and even those that struggle agree quickly that the results are worth every effort.
Tackle and techniques on the Rio Grande are not very complicated. Experienced steelhead and Atlantic Salmon fishermen immediately feel “in their element.” Quartering downstream with streamers or dead drifting nymphs are the most common methods used, and skated dry flies are terrific when the conditions are right. Two-handed rods are arguably the most efficient tool to fish the Rio Grande; they make it easy for a lot of anglers, especially those with shoulder or elbow problems. Single-handed 8-weight rods matched with stout reels and assortment of interchangeable tips still have their place on the Rio Grande and in the right conditions fish can be taken on the surface. However, sink-tip lines with streamers and nymphs account for the vast majority of trophy trout.
The Rio Grande is one of the easiest streams to wade in the Americas. The river is seldom more than thigh deep, and can be easily crossed between pools. There’s no moss on a bottom made of nothing but perfect spawning habitat ranging in size from pea gravel to golf ball sized rocks. Leave your studded boots at home because there isn’t a rock big enough on the Rio Grande to trip over. As per clothing, much like an Alaskan fall day, most anglers are very comfortable with a single layer of underwear insulation beneath breathable waders, a light fleece and a waterproof jacket.
A very comprehensive and complete pre-trip tackle and travel planner, specifically assembled for the Rio Grande is available for all anglers headed down to Tierra del Fuego.
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Estancia Maria Behety does offer a non-angler rate of $2,850 per person, double occupancy, but understand that there is little else in the way of structured activities to do on the estancia beyond fishing. A non-angling partner can certainly spend the day reading, painting, taking photographs or enjoying the solitude of the environment. One can walk for miles, birdwatch and wildlife view, explore the workings of the world's largest sheep ranch, or even partake of the local par-3 golf course. If it rains the mushroom gathering is great, but it's all on your own. There are no guides or schedules for these activities.
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